A Memoir of Tahiti: Summer 2004
by
Melanie Waioli Kolea Chan

As we made our descent from the plane, the tarmac of the Papeete International Airport was damp with recent rainfall. Sixteen others and I from KaUaTuahine and our director Mahealani Uchiyama, arrived in Tahiti on a cool, rainy night in mid-July for a ten-day dance excursion on the island. As an ocean breeze enveloped us, we were greeted by Auntie Turere and her family. Uncle Franckie, the ra'atira of Orihere Maohi, greeted us with his wife and Auntie Turere’s sister Auntie Myrna, along with drummer Coleson and his wife and other members of Orihere Maohi. Our hosts welcomed us with big hugs and the customary kiss on each cheek. They showered us with beautiful leis of tiare flowers, and the flowers’ beautiful fragrance embraced us as if to say “Maeva, welcome to Tahiti.” From here, our adventure in Tahitian culture and hospitality began.

Turere Mataoa had invited Mahea and KaUaTuahine to come and study with the Orihere Maohi Tahitian dance company. For some of us it was a return trip to the islands, as some members of K.U.T. had visited back in 2002. Two years later, we returned to continue the cultural exchange between the two dance ensembles. On this trip, we were blessed with the opportunity to dance in exhibition shows on the island of Tahiti, study with Hirohiti Tematahotoa, Orihere Maohi’s choreographer, get a “slice of life” of Tahiti and build life-long connections with the Orihere Maohi family.


We arrived at an optimal time to visit French Polynesia. Tahiti was mid-way through the month-long festival of Heiva, a celebration of Tahitian culture and heritage. Commonly known as Tahiti Fete to non-Tahitian speakers, Heiva is a period when the entire island is celebrating life through song, chant, music and dance. Although we arrived in the middle of the month, we were able to experience—and participate in the month’s festivities. Thanks to the connections that Auntie Turere had set up for us, we were able to perform twice on the island in front of receptive Tahitian audiences.


Our first exhibition performance occurred the first full day we were on the island, with Orihere Maohi at the Faa’a Municipal Fairgrounds. It was an experience that seemed to be of the imagination—the impressionable mountains of Tahiti were in front of us, with the ocean, the island of Mo’orea and the setting sun behind us. The ocean breeze caressed our backs, cooling us as we danced. While rehearsing our pieces, I was hit with the reality that this was not a dream, but a thrilling dream come true. The KaUaTuahine 'ohana from Oakland was dancing in Tahiti!







In addition, we were dancing with our 'ohana, Orihere Maohi and sharing a moment of cultural exchange.


Immediately moving from the thrill of dancing onstage to the thrill of being a spectator in the stands, we got to experience Heiva in Tahiti—Tahitian style. Everywhere—on the television, at the municipal fairgrounds, at the big stadium downtown, there was so much dancing and music; each evening one could watch a full show of performances from groups throughout French Polynesia and outlying areas. For example, after our performance with Orihere at Faa’a, we watched a Marquesan dance ensemble perform.


During our second evening on the island, we went to watch Les Laureates de Heiva Nui, the winners of the annual national dance and music competition on the island of Tahiti. The show was riveting—the musicians, the costumes, the dancers were the best of the best in Tahiti for 2004. It was simply amazing to see, hear and simply experience the caliber of dance and musical skill that is Tahitian dance.


The Heiva show was a prelude to what was to come during our stay in Tahiti. The next big adventure came when KaUaTuahine worked with Orihere Maohi’s choreographer Hirohiti Tematahotoa. Hiro, who is Auntie Turere and Auntie Myrna’s youngest brother, openly welcomed us and shared his expertise with us. His energy was contagious and inspiring, and it was an honor to work with him. Hiro challenged the members of KaUaTuahine with his dramatic choreography and after working hard, we were awarded with learning a repertoire of four new dances.


Our second exhibition performance took place one week after we arrived on the island. KaUaTuahine danced at the Heiva Rima’i Arts and Crafts center, and we showcased the choreography we learned in our workshops with Hiro. Just like at Faa’a, we were blessed to dance in front of a packed and receptive audience. It was an emotionally charged experience; there was so much joy and excitement within us as dancers, within the crowd, and within all of the “behind the stage” people like Auntie Turere, Auntie Myrna, Uncle Franckie, and Hiro. The audience was supportive of our performance and the president of the Arts and Crafts guild publicly thanked Mahea for her work in promoting and honoring Tahitian culture and arts.


In addition to the immense exposure to dance, Orihere Maohi also coordinated cultural tours for KaUaTuahine. Through the coordination of Auntie Turere, we toured the island of Tahiti and the neighboring island of Mo’orea. KaUa Tuahine and Orihere enjoyed Tema'e beach while on Mo’orea. On Tahiti Island, we stopped to see the points of interest, such as the three cascades of Arahoho, and Teahupo'o beach, were we spent the afternoon making barbeque lunch and rehearsing new dance material on the beach.


Along with discovering and enjoying the natural beauty of Tahiti, we also forged everlasting friendships with our Tahitian hosts. The families of Tematahotoa, Mataoa, Taae, and Hiriata graciously welcomed us with open arms into their homes and lives during our stay. Within a week and a half, we built a camaraderie that crossed cultural and geographical boundaries. When our stay on the island was over, it was a tearful farewell that was heartfelt by all. The experiences and memories that KaUaTuahine and Orihere built together will remain in our collective memory, helping us to continue to build a solid exchange of culture, love and friendship. Our amazing experience this summer in Tahiti may be over, but KaUaTuahine and Orihere Maohi are dedicated to maintaining our cultural friendship and exchange.





Photos from top:

1) KUT dancer Meridith Kawekiu Roberts poses with sister dancer from Orihere Maohi.
2) Practice in Fa'a'a at sunset before the performance.
3) KaUaTuahine performing Kaveka Te Manu at Fa'a'a.
4) Rachel Konane Brown performs Holo Mai Pele, Fa'a'a.
5) Orihere Maohi performs their 'Ote'a, Fa'a'a.
6) KaUaTuahine and Hirohiti Tematahotoa after practice.
7) Kahiko performance at Heiva Rima'i.
8) Uncle Frankie Taae and Tavake (Turere's son) prepare dancer's accessories before the show.
9) Practice at Tema'e Beach, Mo'orea.
10) Sunset at Mo'orea.

Ma'uru'uru to photographers Alan Kekoa Aki, Mahealani Uchiyama, Laughlin Hemolele Stohlman, and special thanks to Claude Savriacouty of La Depeche du Fenua.